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On what temperature should I set my thermostat?
There is not one temperature setting that will meet everyone’s comfort level. The system is designed to maintain 70 degrees inside when the outside temperature is 10 degrees in the winter. It is also designed to maintain 75 degrees when it is 95 degrees outside. The whole point in having a system in your home is for you to be comfortable. Therefore, set the thermostat to the setting that allows you to feel the most comfortable.
How often should I change my air filter?
If you have a fiberglass throwaway filter, you should change it every 30 days. The filter helps keep your duct system, motors, and coils cleaner longer. I recommend that you change the filter when you get your electric bill. If you do not change your filter, your electric bill will increase. The same is true if you own an electrostatic or electronic air cleaner. They need to be washed every 30 days to remain efficient.
What is the best filter to use?
For optimum indoor air quality and fuel efficiency a large surface area filter should be utilized. These filters are commonly referred to as media filters and measure approximately 5”x20”x25”. Although more expensive to install and replace these filters often last 6 months and allow proper air flow even at full capacity. Call Ductworks today for more information on this product.
Why does a heat pump blow out cold air?
The air temperature leaving your register should not be less than 85 degrees. Even though the air temperature coming out of the register is 85 degrees your body temperature is 98.6 degrees. The 85-degree air will feel cool. The problem is not the air temperature but the location and type of register being used. Sometimes a deflector or changing the type of register being used can increase your comfort level. The answer to being comfortable even though your heat pump air is cooler is not to feel it blowing out of the register – 85-degree air will keep your home comfortable. Remember we are talking about the very least air temperature. When the outside temperature is above 45 degrees, the air from your register should be in the high 90 degree range.
How often should I have my system cleaned?
To many homeowners’ surprise, airborne dirt and household lint cause most of the problems with your system. Even if you change your filters every 30 days, 90 percent of the airborne particles get through your throwaway air filter. These particles will collect on your blower motor, blower wheel, and indoor coil. Air cleaner’s help but particles still get through. Your outdoor coils collect dust, pollen, and grass clippings. These particles will become an insulator and have a huge effect on the operation of your system. It is recommended that a Heating and Air conditioning system, be thoroughly cleaned twice a year to be sure that the system is operating to its full efficiency rating. It takes special coil cleaners to remove all the particles and bacteria that collect on the parts of the system.
I see the arrow on my furnace filter but I`m not sure how to correctly position it? What should I do?
The arrow should point in the same direction as the air flow. In most cases, it will point towards the furnace and should fit between the return air part of the system and the furnace. The filter screens out the dust and other impurities before the air is warmed in your furnace and then distributed through the duct system.
How do I determine the size of system I need for my home?
There are many factors that go into determining the correct capacity of heating and air conditioning equipment for your home. These include square feet to be cooled, climate, humidity, size and number of windows, insulation factors, heat producing appliances, and even the number of people who live in the home.
The only accurate way to determine the correct capacity for your home is to have a heat loss or load analysis calculation performed on your home. These figures can then be used to select the appropriately sized cooling or heating system for your home, based on equipment performance data. Holmes Heating and Air Conditioning can do a load analysis on your home and help you decide what the particular needs are for your comfort.
How often should I get my ductwork cleaned?
If you have just had renovations done, you should get the ducts cleaned as soon as the job is complete to eliminate all of the dirt, sawdust, etc. from your ducts. Otherwise, under normal circumstance, we recommended getting a duct cleaning done every three to five years.
How often should I change my filters?
The most important factor for efficient operation of your heating and air conditioning system is proper airflow. Dirty air filters will severely limit airflow, which can cause the compressor to run continuously – causing your operating costs to increase. Your air filters should be inspected every month and then changed or cleaned as necessary, and the outdoor unit should be free of debris to ensure uninterrupted movement of air.
How effective are HEPA filter systems?
A HEPA filter is effective in removing 99.97% of airborne particles, including all pollens and particles, down to 0.3 microns (1/87,000") in diameter.
What is the difference between a Limited Warranty and an Extended Warranty?
A limited warranty covers specific parts (compressor, coil, heat exchanger, etc.); therefore, it is limited by the language in the warranty. Extended warranties are generally purchased in addition to the equipment, covering all parts and also possibly including labor and service call coverage.
Should I cover my outdoor unit in the winter?
Covering your unit during the winter months is a good idea. Even though air conditioning systems are manufactured to withstand all possible climate changes, covering your outdoor unit will prevent snow and ice from damaging fan blades and putting them of balance. Make sure any air conditioner cover you place over your outdoor unit does not restrict proper airflow.
Do I need a humidifier?
Although it depends largely on your personal needs and tastes, a home humidifier is certainly helpful during the coldest weeks of winter. In extremely cold temperatures, insufficient moisture in the air is responsible for a variety of problems, including dry and bleeding noses, sore throats, dust buildup, static electricity, and cracks and dried-out joints in wood furniture.
In the spring, if you have a drum-style humidifier, remember to turn off the water flow, drain and clean the pan to ensure that harmful mould spores and bacteria cannot form over the summer.
Should my equipment be serviced annually?
Yes! We definitely recommend having your HVAC equipment serviced every year. An annual inspection and tune-up ensures that your equipment is operating at peak efficiency, which will save you money on your energy bills and help you avoid costly repairs to your HVAC system in the future.
Why does our furnace smell badly when we first turn it on?
A bad smell is usually the result of not using the gas furnace very often, which allows dust to settle on the heat exchanger. Then, when the furnace is turned on, the dust is burnt off – producing the bad smell. If you still have this problem even when the furnace is in regular use, consider replacing a filter in your system to prevent excess dust buildup.
What does it mean when a product is “ENERGY STAR qualified”?
If a product is ENERGY STAR qualified, this means that it is significantly more energy efficient than required under current federal standards. For example, central air conditioning systems with ENERGY STAR endorsed logos exceed existing federal standards by a minimum of 20 percent, while furnaces with the logo exceed minimum standards by at least 15 percent. Essentially, being ENERGY STAR qualified means that the products have a higher level of energy efficiency than standard products found on the market today.
ENERGY STAR qualified products allow homeowners to use energy more efficiently, save money on utility bills, help make their homes more comfortable and reduce air pollution.
Since they cost a lot more than regular systems, what are the advantages of buying high-efficiency furnace or air conditioning systems?
Although it will cost more initially, buying a high-efficiency furnace, air conditioner or heat pump is an economically and environmentally responsible decision. Equipment with high efficiency ratings will:
- Use less energy, which helps conserve non-renewable resources and reduces greenhouse gas emissions;
- Pay for itself many times over as it accumulates savings over its lifetime from lower energy use;
- Cost less to operate thanks to more efficient motors and fans than standard HVAC systems;
- Often have a longer and more comprehensive warranty.
Is a DC (ECM) motor really that much better than an AC motor?
Yes, it is. According to General Electric Corporation, a DC (ECM) motor can save up to $325 per year on electrical usage.
What is carbon monoxide?
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a poisonous gas that you cannot see, smell or taste. It is produced by the incomplete burning of fuels such as natural gas, propane, heating oil, kerosene, coal, charcoal or wood. Improperly installed or poorly maintained appliances that run on these fuels may create unsafe levels of CO.
Exposure to carbon monoxide can cause flu-like symptoms such as headaches, nausea, dizziness, burning eyes, confusion, drowsiness and even loss of consciousness. In very severe cases, CO poisoning can cause brain damage and death.
CO warning signs include:
- A sharp, penetrating odor when your gas furnace or other fuel-burning appliance turns on;
- The air feels stale or stuffy;
- The pilot light of your furnace goes out;
- Chalky, white powder forms on the chimney/exhaust vent pipe or soot builds up around the exhaust vent;
- Excessive moisture forms on windows and walls;
- Unusual headaches, muscle tightness, disorientation and tiredness.
While CO detectors can warn you about sudden failures of your fuel-burning appliances, they are not a substitute for regular furnace care and maintenance.
How does an air conditioning system actually work to cool the air in my home?
An air conditioning system consists of 2 parts: an outdoor unit (where liquid refrigerant is condensed) and an indoor coil (where the refrigerant is evaporated). As the air moves across the air conditioning coil (usually located on top of the furnace), the refrigerant removes the heat from the air as well as the moisture by condensing it on the cold surface of the coil. In this way, an air conditioner both cools and dehumidifies the air. Virtually any system can have air conditioning hooked up to it provided that it is a forced air system. In cases where there is not forced air heating or a duct system, we can use "ductless" air conditioning systems to cool an entire home or small business. For more information on traditional or "ductless" air conditioning systems please visit our Air Conditioning Product Information page.
What is an S.E.E.R. (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) rating and what does it mean to you?
S.E.E.R. stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, the standard measurement of air conditioning efficiency established by the U.S. Department of Energy. What does this mean to you? Higher S.E.E.R. ratings translate into greater energy efficiency which means lower summer cooling bills. The most important thing to remember is the higher the S.E.E.R. rating, the more money you save. Why a higher efficiency rating (SEER) saves energy: If your current air conditioner or heat pump is more than 10 years old, it could be operating at lower than 8.00 S.E.E.R. Compare the estimated annual bill of an 8.00 S.E.E.R. system to that of a higher S.E.E.R., such as a 12.00 or 13.00. For instance, if the annual cooling bill of an 8.00 S.E.E.R. system in a particular area is $1,000, it would cost only $615 for a 13.00 S.E.E.R. system to operate at the same capacity in the same area. This is an annual savings of 38%. Now that makes sense, doesn’t it?
How close to the outdoor unit can I plant shrubs or flowers?
Most manufacturers will tell you that plants should not be placed any closer than 18 inches (45 cm) to the outdoor unit. Air conditioners need to take in and exhaust air to operate efficiently, and if that air cannot circulate, the unit could build up heat and require service.
AFUE - Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. A measure of a gas furnace's efficiency in converting fuel to energy. The higher the rating, the more efficient the unit. For example: A rating of 90 means that approximately 90 percent of the fuel is used to provide warmth to your home, while the remaining 10 percent escapes as exhaust.
BTU - British Thermal Unit. This is the amount of heat it takes to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. For your home, it represents the measure of heat given off when fuel is burned for heating or the measure of heat extracted from your home for cooling.
CFM - Cubic Feet Per Minute. A standard measurement of airflow. A typical system requires 400 CFM per ton of air conditioning.
Capacity - The output or producing ability of a piece of cooling or heating equipment. Cooling and heating capacities are referred to on BTUs.
Comfort-R™ Airflow System - An exclusive feature of a high efficiency home comfort system from Trane. This method of ramping airflow gives you greater humidity control in cooling and provides warmer air during heating startup.
Compressor - The heart of an air conditioning or heat pump system. It is part of the outdoor unit and pumps refrigerant in order to meet the cooling requirements of the system.
Condenser Coil or Outdoor Coil - In an air conditioner, the coil dissipates heat from the refrigerant, changing the refrigerant from vapor to liquid. In a heat pump system, it absorbs heat from the outdoors.
Damper - Found in ductwork, this movable plate opens and closes to control airflow. Dampers can be used to balance airflow in a duct system. They are also used in zoning to regulate airflow to certain rooms.
Ductwork - Pipes or channels that carry air throughout your home. In a home comfort system, ductwork is critical to performance - in fact, it's as critical as the equipment.
Evaporator Coil or Indoor Coil - The other half of your air conditioning system located inside your home in the indoor unit. This is where the refrigerant evaporates as it absorbs heat from the air that passes over the coil.
Gas Furnace Heat Exchanger - Located in the furnace, the heat exchanger transfers heat to the surrounding air, which is then pumped throughout your home
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HSPF - Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. This rating is used in measuring the heating efficiency of a heat pump. The higher the number, the more efficient the unit.
Package Unit - A heating and cooling system contained in one outdoor unit. A package unit is typically installed either beside, on top of the home, or sometimes in the attic.
Refrigerant - A chemical that produces a refrigerating effect while expanding and vaporizing. Most residential air conditioning systems contain R-22 refrigerant. R-22 is regulated by international controls under the Montreal Protocol and in the United States by the Environmental Protection Agency. It is scheduled to be in production until the year 2020. It's used in approximately 95 percent of air conditioning equipment manufactured in the U.S. today.
SEER - Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. A measure of cooling efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps. The higher the SEER, the more energy efficient the unit. The government's minimum SEER rating is 10. (It's similar to comparing miles per gallon in automobiles.)
SEET - Seasonal Extreme Environmental Test Lab. This is Trane's torture chamber for heating and air conditioning systems, where five years of service are condensed into 16 torturous weeks. If a product doesn't make it through our SEET lab, it's not manufactured. We push our equipment to extremes because we'd rather test them in our lab than in your home.
Split System - The combination of an outdoor unit (air conditioner or heat pump) with an indoor unit (furnace or air handler). Split systems must be matched for optimum efficiency.
Thermostat - A thermostat consists of a series of sensors and relays that monitor and control the functions of a heating and cooling system.
Ton - A unit of measurement used for determining cooling capacity. One ton is the equivalent of 12,000 BTUs per hour.
Zoning - A method of dividing a home into different comfort zones so each zone can be independently controlled depending on use and need.
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